Page 33 - CIJ April 2025- Digital Edition
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SPECIAL REPORT
fresh food from the sea is Tendulkar is very specific about
available; no fishing happens cleaning, cutting, and preserving
in the Arabian Sea,” informs processes. “Scaly fishes are kept
the seafood specialist, away from non-scaly ones, to
whose restaurant name prevent deterioration of the latter.
means “smell of fish” Salt and turmeric application as
(Matsyagandha) in soon as cutting is critical. Salt acts
Sanskrit. Talking about as an astringent and removes extra
fish farming, Palghar and water, hardens it so shelf life is
Dahanu (outside Mumbai increased. Turmeric, used with salt,
city limits) have farms. increases the shelf life of cut fish
“Pomfrets and prawns are pieces.”
farmed in salt water and
sweet water.” Seafood at the restaurant
“Farms close to the ocean is stored for use without any
are chosen, sea water is drawn chemical preservatives. There
in, doors are attached to block is clarity about methods as
and fish eggs lowered in. After seafood bought from the market
the eggs hatch and reach a or delivered at the door arrives.
certain size, a net is put in “I handle the big fishes; my wife
place of the door so that fishes and staff handle the others. After
cannot escape and sea water cutting and washing using tap
flows in. The sweet-water water, removing the blood spots,
cultivation is in man-made and intestines, salt and turmeric
ponds for prawn harvesting in are applied before storage. With
farmhouses. Porbandar port (in experience, these steps are easy
Gujarat) supplies the best quality to do, though necessary.”
and biggest sizes of seafood, Discussing the varieties in
especially lobsters.” the market, he is of the view
that pomfret, mackerel, and
prawns are in demand here.
• Mumbai-based Anirudh Tendulkar runs a Malvani cuisine restaurant Tastier varieties like herring,
in Goregaon for 25 years now silver bar fish, and sardines
• After working in Chiplin with a trust from 1990 to 2000, he returned (hilsa, karli, tarli) are sold in
to Mumbai and entered the food business by opening a local snack Mumbai markets. Goan fish
outlet to gain experience Baramunda (local name Jitada),
• He converted his father’s dispensary into Matsyagandha in 2001 one of the oily types and tough
• He learnt the restaurant business, employee handling, and seafood to clean (hard scales scrubbed
off with iron brushes), is valued.
management from Nagesh Pai, who mentored him for four years Customers are interested in
• His wife joined the business 15 years ago fish thalis, and innovations are
• Matsyagandha, a fish speciality restaurant that also serves vegetarian popular, especially items made
and non-vegetarian items, is open for lunch and dinner, besides in Malvani style. The Goan fish
offering private catering for groups and functions Chonnak is in demand as fried
fish fillets.”
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