Page 33 - CIJ April 2025- Digital Edition
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SPECIAL REPORT




















                                                      fresh food from the sea is      Tendulkar is very specific about
                                                      available; no fishing happens   cleaning, cutting, and preserving
                                                       in the Arabian Sea,” informs   processes. “Scaly fishes are kept
                                                        the seafood specialist,     away from non-scaly ones, to
                                                         whose restaurant name      prevent deterioration of the latter.
                                                          means “smell of fish”     Salt and turmeric application as
                                                          (Matsyagandha) in         soon as cutting is critical. Salt acts
                                                           Sanskrit. Talking about   as an astringent and removes extra
                                                           fish farming, Palghar and   water, hardens it so shelf life is
                                                           Dahanu (outside Mumbai   increased. Turmeric, used with salt,
                                                           city limits) have farms.   increases the shelf life of cut fish
                                                          “Pomfrets and prawns are   pieces.”
                                                          farmed in salt water and
                                                         sweet water.”                Seafood at the restaurant
                                                         “Farms close to the ocean   is stored for use without any
                                                      are chosen, sea water is drawn   chemical preservatives. There
                                                      in, doors are attached to block   is clarity about methods as
                                                      and fish eggs lowered in. After   seafood bought from the market
                                                      the eggs hatch and reach a    or delivered at the door arrives.
                                                      certain size, a net is put in   “I handle the big fishes; my wife
                                                      place of the door so that fishes   and staff handle the others. After
                                                      cannot escape and sea water   cutting and washing using tap
                                                      flows in. The sweet-water     water, removing the blood spots,
                                                      cultivation is in man-made    and intestines, salt and turmeric
                                                      ponds for prawn harvesting in   are applied before storage. With
                                                      farmhouses. Porbandar port (in   experience, these steps are easy
                                                      Gujarat) supplies the best quality   to do, though necessary.”
                                                      and biggest sizes of seafood,   Discussing the varieties in
                                                      especially lobsters.”         the market, he is of the view
                                                                                    that pomfret, mackerel, and
                                                                                    prawns are in demand here.
                  •  Mumbai-based Anirudh Tendulkar runs a Malvani cuisine restaurant   Tastier varieties like herring,
                     in Goregaon for 25 years now                                   silver bar fish, and sardines
                  •  After working in Chiplin with a trust from 1990 to 2000, he returned   (hilsa, karli, tarli) are sold in
                     to Mumbai and entered the food business by opening a local snack   Mumbai markets. Goan fish
                     outlet to gain experience                                      Baramunda (local name Jitada),
                  •  He converted his father’s dispensary into Matsyagandha in 2001  one of the oily types and tough
                  •  He learnt the restaurant business, employee handling, and seafood   to clean (hard scales scrubbed
                                                                                    off with iron brushes), is valued.
                     management from Nagesh Pai, who mentored him for four years    Customers are interested in
                  •  His wife joined the business 15 years ago                      fish thalis, and innovations are
                  •  Matsyagandha, a fish speciality restaurant that also serves vegetarian   popular, especially items made
                     and non-vegetarian items, is open for lunch and dinner, besides   in Malvani style. The Goan fish
                     offering private catering for groups and functions             Chonnak is in demand as fried
                                                                                    fish fillets.”
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