Sustainability through rural tourism

The Rann of Kutch, one of the largest seasonal wetlands of the world, would have been more in the news in the coming days for its decreasing bird species (from 273 to less than 50) than a famous village resort had it not been for local standards of hygiene, solar energy, soak pits and mud/thatch walls plastered with lime that gave rural tourism an altogether different meaning. For, situated on an expanse of 2500sqkm area at village Hodka on the Banni grasslands in the Rann, Gujarat, is Shaam-e-Sarhad (Sunset on the Border) – a village resort that has come to acquire a distinct place in rural tourism in the country.

Conceived by the Ministry of Tourism and initiated by the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) in 2004-05, a rural tourism project saw 31 villages being identified as rural tourism sites. Hodka village, with its pastoral community, was one. Its residents, Maldharis (cattle-breeders), are mostly Muslims with a few families having Iranian and Afghan ancestry.

After detailed discussions among local community leaders, district administration, Non-Governmental Organisations (NGOs) like Hunnarshala and Kutch Mahila Vikas Sangathan (KMVS), state department officials, local artisans and a special Paryatan (Tourism) Committee comprising representatives of 11 villages set up for the purpose, a definite plan emerged for Shaam-e-Sarhad. This being a project on sustainable development for low income families, it was decided to promote local culture, craft and artisanship. The resort was to be run by the villagers themselves with no middleman in between. NGOs Hunnarshala and KMVS, working for years with the locals at the Banni grasslands, took over the mantle of putting the pieces together.

Hodka, near Pakistan border, had 12 hamlets. A 13th was created for Shaam-e-Sarhad. “The software was run by the NGOs and the hardware (finance) came from the UNDP,” says Sandeep Virmani, Managing Director, Hunnarshala. But, the UNDP is not in the picture any more. The self sustenance project now comes directly under the Ministry for Tourism.

Instead of the square structures, it was decided to have local structures, i.e., bhungas for the resort. “The square structures with corners had fallen during the Bhuj earthquake while the round shaped bhungas withstood the seismic activity,” says Virmani.

So, true to traditional style of architecture, the corner-less bhungas are made of locally available material like mud, water, wood and sun block using adobe and cob technology. Their thick mud walls prove cooler during summer. The floors are made of clay and the mud/thatch roofs are conical. Artisans from the entire area helped. Lacquer metal workers, wood carvers, wall painters and brick makers put their expertise together in bringing up the resort which has beautifully decorated bhungas and tents with traditional Kutchi craftsmanship and mud-mirror work. “The mud/thatch walls need maintenance. Hence, they are plastered with lime for protection,” informs Virmani. The view of the resort is enhanced with lattice-like fences and benches. The courtyards have folk motifs. Around 30 people can stay at the resort at a time and over 50 can dine at it.

The water chain, admits Virmani, is “not so good”. There are soak-pits in the kitchens and toilets for water supply which comes to the resort by government pipelines in collaboration with district administration from a distance of over 100km.

“We grow a few trees around the soak pits which are eight feet deep and are lined with bricks. The treatment of water is a natural process as is followed in villages anywhere else in the country. The heavy material settles down and the clean water remains at the top of these covered pits,” he says. The composting process is good for the trees around the pits.

“There is no special technology adopted for the treatment of water. There is no special water management here,” agrees Virmani. But he hopes that in the coming years “something will be done for water management” as water coming from a distance of 100km cannot be a feasible aspect over a long time. “Hopefully, we will be able to put a technology for recycling and management in place then. We would want to bring in a lot of water efficiency here,” he avers.

The flushed water from regular Western toilets seeps below the soil through plumbing lines. There is one combined soak pit for three-four toilets put together. Sewage systems like DEWATS for recycling of grey and black water are not feasible at Hodka, says Virmani. “These areas don’t use toilets and the locals are still used to open defecation over large dry lands,” he adds.

Solar energy is used to quite an extent. Earlier, the women used to heat water on wood. Now they use solar energy for it. The next phase is converting lighting in the resort too to solar energy. Right now electricity for rooms is provided by the government.

“Initially, we weren’t sure of the project’s success. Hence, the investment was small – to the tune of Rs50lakhs. We had trained the locals to attend to guests and handle the facilities properly. Basic dining and kitchen facilities for tents were provided then. The first year, 2005, was a trial period. It was successful. We also came to know of the tourist profile that year. So, in the second year, we put up bhungas.”

No chemicals are used at the resort. Even the paintings on the walls are done in six different mud colours. Every year, the local women paint the walls anew. Lacquer work too has natural dyes. Lime plasters are natural too.

Since the last two years, the community has begun managing the resort on its own. “We are out of the picture. Their annual turnover is between Rs20 to Rs25 lakhs and they make a net profit of Rs6 to Rs7 lakhs a year,” says Virmani.

The resort gives employment to 64 local families. Apart from running the resort, they also sell their handicraft and embroidered stuff. Local mojaris, kanjirs (embroidered blouses), quilts, small traditional clutches and leather craft are popular with the guests as are jewellery, hand fans, clay stuff, mirror frames etc. The plant species Prosopis Julifora, locally known as Gando Baawal, that has destroyed the Banni grassland to a great extent, is now converted into charcoal and sold too.

Folk theatre and music as various forms of entertainment are popular with the guests, over 45% of whom are foreigners. The Banni grasslands are a combination of wetland and dry land which make them a successful ecological zone and migratory route for three successful birds – Caspian Sea to Australia, Siberia to Africa and Kashmir to Kutch and back. The locals here also act as guides on wildlife trips on its wetlands, famous for their birds.

Of late, home hospitality too is gaining ground here. The community decides the rate which is, cheaper than the $40 a bhunga for the resort. There are of, course, guidelines for tourists on the use of water, energy and also dress code. No alcohol can be consumed at the resort, nor is smoking allowed inside the bhunga. The elders had raised a concern on the dresses holidayers might wear in the village. Hence, it was decided that no half pants would be allowed in the village. “As it is, people who come here are interested in the culture of the place. They are mentally tuned to respecting the way of life here,” opines Virmani.

Hodka gets a large number of repeat visitors. Also, an Australian Group that caters to women travellers, loves the place and brings visitors on a regular basis here. Sometimes, visitors also take classes in embroidery and artisanship.

Guests love to explore the barren lands, visit artisan communities, go for camel safaris to Black Hill and the Great Rann of Kutch and see wild animals, go bird-watching to the wetlands, visit the Than monastery, take dip in the Mandvi river and go to one of the largest archaeological sites of Indus Valley Civilisation – Dholavira.

The closeness to Pak border was a concern initially. Now, it is an attraction. Discussions were held with the Border Security Force and the Air Force on the issue. So, after seeking the required permit to go beyond this point, a few visitors also go to see the Indo-Pak border.

Vidyottama P Sharma